In Kagawa Prefecture (香川県), a Shikoku prefecture often overshadowed by its neighbors, a shrine offers a climb of 785 steps deep in nature. A pilgrimage path, a physical meditation, and one of the most beautiful views of Japan’s Inland Sea.

785 Steps to the Sacred: the sando (参道) of Kagawa’s Shrine Not to Be Taken Lightly

Kagawa (香川県): The Forgotten Prefecture

Kagawa is Japan’s smallest prefecture by area—and one of the least known to international travelers. Yet it holds a special place in Japanese culture: it is the birthplace of udon (udon no kuni うどんの国, "the land of udon"), the native soil of Kūkai (空海, 774–835), the Buddhist monk who founded the Shingon school and whose 88-temple pilgrimage in Shikoku remains one of Japan’s most important (o-henro お遍路).

The prefecture borders the Seto Inland Sea (瀬戸内海, Setonaikai), that sea between Honshū, Shikoku, and Kyūshū dotted with hundreds of islands, some of which have become major artistic destinations (Naoshima 直島, Teshima 豊島). It is within this geographical and spiritual context that the shrine and its 785 steps are situated.

The sando (参道): The Path to the Shrine

In Japanese, sando (参道) refers to the approach path leading to the entrance of a Shintō shrine (jinja 神社) or a Buddhist temple. This path carries religious significance: it marks the transition from the profane world (ke 褻) to the sacred space (hare 晴). Crossing the torii (鳥居—the vermilion gate) at the start of the sando is to enter another dimension.

The sando of Kompirasan (金刀比羅宮 / konpira-san), the Shintō shrine in Kotohira (琴平), Kagawa Prefecture—and one of Shikoku’s most revered pilgrimage sites, dedicated to Ōmononushi (大物主神), the deity of the seas and navigation—features 785 steps, making it one of Shikoku’s most notable ascents. It winds through an ancient forest. The stone steps, moss-covered on the oldest ones, rise gradually beneath a canopy that filters the light. Each landing offers a natural pause, a new framing of the landscape, a fresh opportunity for silence.

785 steps take about 30 to 45 minutes to climb for an average walker, depending on fitness and how long one lingers. It is not a technical hike—it is a meditative walk.

What Awaits at the Summit

Reaching the shrine itself after this climb feels different from taking a funicular or bus. The height has been earned. The body is engaged, the breathing different, the perception of space altered.

The view from Kompirasan offers a sweeping vista of the Seto Inland Sea—one of western Japan’s most iconic landscapes, with its scattered islands and maritime horizon between the hills. In autumn, the momiji (紅葉—red maples) add a layer of color that makes the place even more photographed.

Kagawa: A Destination Worth (Re)discovering

These 785 steps serve as a fitting metaphor for Kagawa itself: a destination that demands a little extra attention, that doesn’t impose itself immediately, but rewards those who commit to it. Between handmade udon bowls for 200 yen, the art islands of the Seto Sea, the 88 temples of the Shikoku pilgrimage, and mountain shrines like Kompirasan, Kagawa is one of Japan’s most underrated prefectures for slow, mindful travel.

If you’re planning a trip to Shikoku, don’t make the mistake of passing through without stopping.